Annapurna Circuit Part 2: On The Road with Yak Kerouac

You expect to be blown away by the biggest mountains in the world. But thankfully, no one can capture the Himilayas. No writer, photographer, poet, blogger, or traveler could describe these extraordinary mountains. One can only really know for oneself.

Day 6: Chame to Upper Pisang; 9 miles

Leaving Chame was not easy; its the largest town we’ve seen in days, and the energy of the people we spent the evening with was excited and happy. But like any “big” town, it actually does feel great to journey to the smaller, more quaint places. So, off we went.

We finally saw the huge landslide that was actually printed on our map which was 3 years old. It’s the little things that can be thrilling. (Or, the big things, in this particular case.) It is chilling to walk on the paths in this area, knowing that there’s no reason that it couldn’t slide at any moment as well.

This was the first day we left the jungle environment in exchange for the aptly named “Peaceful Forest.” Tree-sized rhododendrons and vines were replaced by pine trees, and it began to remind us of Colorado. Michelle bought an 75 year old Tibetan coin for 70 rupees ($0.80) from a gentleman who had a handicrafts stand in the middle of the forest. It will become wearable jewelry at some point when the tools at our disposal.

As we came to the top of the forest, we were able to see that we were in the middle of amazing glacial rock formations. A huge bowl-like carved rock face surrounded us, and at its edge were huge prominent rock formations that were very reminiscent of our adored flatirons of Boulder. You couldn’t escape them if you tried, and we never tried. They were empowering and had a deep history and story to tell. They wouldn’t let you pass them by without telling you how happy they were to see you.

We had lunch in Dhikur Pokhari and had our first taste of tibetan bread, and wondered why it took us so dang long to try it. Holy cow, its amazing; like flat funnel cake. And this one was particularly happy about its fate.

Here, we had the choice to stay in either Upper or Lower Pisang. Athough the trek was supposed to be much more difficult, it was also rumored to be significantly more beautiful. So, we unwaveringly headed to Upper Pisang. We continued our walk upward, and I can’t think of anything being a better decision. Here, in the most cozy little dining hall I’ve ever seen, we settled in to drink up our first views of Annapurna IV which were truly just mind blowing. One of those literal “I can’t believe my eyes moments.” Just wow.

We walked up the hill behind our guesthouse to find a beautiful, active monastery. The monks were working and studying, and laid out pillows for us to sit on while they chanted. The monastery itself was in disrepair 20 years ago, and the citizens of Pisang have all conributed to its revival, either my monetary donation or a time/work donation. It is still being restored, and its a stunning example of architecture new and old in a single strucure. It added to the raw truth of the building and its purpose. Although the monks and villagers of Pisang considered it still in progress, it was perfect to us.

That evening, we met Brad and Annie, a couple from Seattle, and Simon and Vicky from the UK. Awesome new friends we feel so lucky to have met and continue to hang out with!

Day 7: Upper Pisang to Braka; 10 miles

We didn’t want to leave Upper Pisang. Ever. We awoke to monks singing, and playing gongs and singing bowls. We had a wonderful breakfast with friends as the clouds parted in front of Annapurna IV to reveal blue skies for the day. We felt like we had arrived in Heaven. We chalked this one up as the best place we’ve visited so far, laced up our boots, and left it behind us.

The walk toward Braka was also unbelievable. There were many little farm towns, and now instead of seeing rice harvests, we are seeing corn, leafy greens, potatoes and pumpkins.

We stopped in Ngawal for a lunch of spicy local Mo:Mos, and met Laura and Brian from Vancouver. An awesome newly-engaged couple who we immediately clicked with, and would meet up with many more times before our trek was over. The four of us tried to avoid being trampled while a herd of Yak were being forcefully moved through a town of tight-roads. Locals were hanging out of their windows, also encouraging the big dumb animals away from their homes and out of their little town.

Walking down through a huge field of Yaks grazing totally delighted us in a childish giddy way. We made our way through their territory with uninterested gazes and apprehension from the immense animals. We made our way down to Braka where we couldn’t resist the “Hotel New Yak” where a Sherpa guide we met in Chame and the 8 young boys he was guiding were staying, and he encouraged us to hang with them. Sold. We were shown our room, number 303 (holler, Boulder, Colorado!), and knew that this was meant to be. Our friends Laura and Brian showed up, and as it turned out they were in the room next door.

Day 8: Rest day in Braka. Side day trek to Ice Lake; 5 miles

A rest day in Nepal doesn’t mean rest. It means, hike higher and come back down to help yourself acclimate to the altitude. Our feet weren’t excited about spending the rest day in our hiking boots, but we went for it anyway. More Yaks, prayer flags, stupas, and mountain views were our reward as we put in the acclimation work.

We came back down, and found that our friends from Upper Pisang, Brad, Annie, Simon and Vicky had also decided to make Hotel New Yak their home. I took the first HOT SHOWER of the trip (OMG. Nothing could be better,) and the 8 of us played some seriously rousing shit-talking card games all night, and couldn’t have been happier.

Day 9: Braka to Yak Khara; 6.8 miles

Today, we made it above tree line. Strolling alongside some baby yaks who couldn’t help but playing with each other, we enjoyed their youthful bliss.

It was a pretty easy day of walking and we ended up in Yak Khara (dubbed Yak Attack by the locals) where we had some great views of the mountains. Our relaxed evening involved cards, yahtzee, another acclimation walk, many layers of clothing, and endless dal bhat. The guesthouse owners lit a wood burning stove as the chill set in with the sunset. We cozied up with everyone else staying there that evening, and chatted until bedtime (which, at this point, has started being around 7:30pm.)

Day 10: Yak Kahara to Thorong Phedi; 3.7 miles

October 1st. Happy birthday, Eric! We had breakfast alongside this candle, and thought of you.

We gained some major elevation today, as Thorong Phedi is at 14,600 feet. Its the last town before the famed Thorong La pass which we will cross over tomorrow. Everyone’s energy is excited and nervous and people are preparing in their own ways. “I figure I’ll just eat a Snickers bar every 30-45 minutes tomorrow” was a plan we heard from a fellow trekker that I was pretty jealous I hadn’t thought of myself.

 

The distance we covered wasn’t long, but it was a constant steep uphill. We were careful to go slowly and keep ourselves from experiencing any symptoms of AMS. It worked. Phew. We crossed some major bridges and got some of our first huge views of the Annapurnas.

Also, I found what MUST be Katie and Zorro’s offspring. Tell me I’m wrong, Kevin & Becca!

We crossed a major landslide area which was pretty unnerving in its own. Then, we realized that a family of horses were just hanging out about 20 feet above us on the rockslide area. So, we kicked the speed up a notch.

We arrived at Thorong Phedi which would be where you may celebrate crossing the pass if you were hiking the circuit from the opposite direction. There was celebratory music coming from the guesthouses and lots of people drinking beer and eating donuts. The proper way to celebrate; and it made me excited and energized for what tomorrow held.

We spent the evening on a little acclimation hike, drinking our weight in hot tea, and getting excited with fellow trekkers about the impending big day.

Relax, tomorrow is going to be a treat.