Day 0: Rest day in Goreopani
On the first day of our trek to Annapurna base camp we didn’t go anywhere. We ate a huge breakfast after our sunrise hike to Poon Hill and took advantage of the Internet connection to research the hike we were about to embark on. It felt good to rest our bodies, our tired feet and sore shoulders. We took hot showers and lounged on the patio of our hotel.
This down time gave us a rare glimpse into the brief period where no trekkers swarmed the guesthouse. Immediately after the morning breakfast rush, the hosts and workers of the lodge cleaned every room, did all the laundry, and restocked all the supplies before the next wave of trekkers wandered in from the trail. The work ethic was inspiring. During the high season, they work nearly 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.
Day 1: Goreopani to Chulie
The morning traffic getting out of Goreopani was a nightmare. We suppressed the trail rage as we kicked into high gear to pass the huge crowds clogging the path. The trail was a constant up and down along narrow ridges, steep stone stairways, beside streams, past waterfalls and when we finally reached Tadopani…it was all booked up. Luckily we met a friendly trekking tour guide who encouraged us to keep walking another 45 minutes to the small town of Chulie.
We arrived to a flat oasis terraced into the steep jungle hillside. The garden of the guesthouse was lush and blooming with brightly colored flowers contrasting the gathering rain clouds. We were lucky to grab the last available room just in time to watch throngs of tour groups wander in, their guides having wisely called ahead for the trail to make a reservation.
We spent an incredible evening in a packed and lively dining hall, filled with travelers and locals alike. We met Darian, who coincidentally was born and raised in Boulder. He was in Nepal working with the Trek to Teach international internship program. He will be living in Chommrong and teaching English in Nepal for 11 weeks. His guide, employer and fellow volunteer was as helpful as he was knowledgable. We played cards with porters and learned some Nepali games. The entire restaurant filled with warmth from the wood fire, new friends, stories, smiles and laughter.
Day 2: Chulie to Sinuwa
In the morning, we were still in such good spirits from the night before we floated through the first part of the hike. We hardly noticed how far we had descended to the river valley far below Chulie, until we faced the climb back up the other side. We reached Chhomrog in the heat of the day, wishing we could stay for days. The entire town is stacked along a winding stone staircase with colorful guesthouses, restaurants and residences terraced into mountainside. Rumors of the legendary German Bakery had reached us along the circuit weeks ago. We envied Darian for getting to spend 11 weeks in such a quaint town with such stunning scenery.
Unfortunately for us, we had to descend the seemingly endless stone steps of Chommrong in the blazing sun. Hiking downhill is so much more brutal on your body than hiking uphill. We were thankful when all we had left in the day’s hike was the climb up to Sinuwa.
Sinuwa is similarly perched high on a lush jungle mountainside, that’s pretty much the only kind of real estate in the area. We passed the afternoon reading out on the patio and hanging out with some fellow trekkers. We met Chilie, a young woman from Germany, Phil, a town planner from Australia, and Maja and Miran from Croatia. We dined together, played card games, and talked hometowns and travels. Maja knew all about Boulder. Our hometown has quite the international reputation. It was nice to reminisce about our home, our cabin, our dogs, our friends. Those are the things that make Boulder home.
Day 3: Sinuwa to Himalaya
The hike seemed to even out after Sinuwa. Instead of the ‘Nepali flat’ constant up and down, we settled into the slight incline that would eventually led us to he Annapurna sanctuary. It was a short day for us.
Since most of the lodges in Hilmalaya were full, we stopped at the first lodge with a bed for us. We ended up sharing a room with two sweet, older Frenchmen. Even though it was a short day, we were still exhausted and knew the following day held a hard walk ahead.
We spent the afternoon playing cards with a young Nepali porter who is studying computer science in Pokhara. By the way he schooled us in cards (he learned the rules to Rummy and figured out Michelle’s one super lame card trick in a flash) I would say he has an aptitude for math.
We were also entertained by the monkeys playing in the trees above the lodge. REALLY entertained.
We tried to get to bed early for a good night’s sleep, but the snoring Frenchman kept us up most of the night. They must have been groggy in the morning too because we found a pair of their eye glasses on the floor when we were packing up. We slipped them into our pack just in case and ended up returning them when we passed on the trail later that day.
Day 4: Himalaya to Annapurna Base Camp
We were motivated and in high gear for our hike up to Annapurna base camp. We cruised effortlessly up the trail and reached camp at 11:30 am.
We were in awe walking into perhaps the earth’s largest natural amphitheater, formed by the massive south face of Annapurna I and it’s ridges and sister peaks that encircle the base camp. Within minutes of setting eyes on Annapurna I, we heard the thunderous crack, then saw a massive avalanche crash down its flank. The avalanche fell thousands of feet, but was dwarfed by the surrounding summits.
At 25,545 ft Annapurna I is the tenth highest mountain in the world and one of the deadliest. A third of those who have attempted to reach the summit have perished going up or down. We marveled at Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck, who just last year climbed the 10,000 ft sheer south face in a mere 28 hours, by himself, by a previously attempted yet unclimbed new route. A truly legendary feat. Respect.
After finding a room in one of the lodges we sipped tea and sat mesmerized by our surroundings. Machapuchare Peak, or Fishtail Peak, dominates the view to the East. This mountain is seen as sacred and no one has been allowed to climb it. The scale and beauty of these peaks is indescribable.
After tea we walked around above basecamp, wandering under the fluttering prayer flags strung between boulders. We peered down into the chaos of the glacier below. We saw a waterfall pouring from a hanging glacier, sending ice and rocks down hundreds of feet. The landscape felt so alive and raw. We stumbled upon shrines to fallen mountaineers who have “become part of Annapurna.” It was a humbling reminder of the harsh and unforgiving mountain environment.
We escaped the growing cold in the lodge’s restaurant and sipped our whiskey-spiked ginger tea in celebration. We were getting to know a friendly older couple from the UK while the porters and locals started a pick up volleyball game. Nothing like running and jumping around at 13,550 ft. We started to see that Nepalis are as competitive as they are athletic.
We were coaxed back out into the cold by a spectacular sunset. After watching the alpenglow fade, we enjoyed our dinner of yet even more dal baht (still craving it even now!) and then retreated to warmth of our sleeping bags.
Day 5: ABC to Upper Sinuwa
We woke up to witness the sunrise kiss the mountain tops, but the cold convinced us to start moving. It was bittersweet walking away from those amazing peaks. Its tempting to stay put and stare in awe at the views for days, but hiking down was a reminder that our time in the Annapurnas was drawing to an end and more adventures were waiting.
After 21 days of shouldering a pack and pounding the trail, we were day dreaming of cold beer and hot showers. This was the motivation that pushed us all the way from ABC to Sinuwa.
We found a room in a guesthouse in Upper Sinuwa just as the rain started to fall. After pretty much perfect weather for our entire trek, we felt lucky the first hard rain storm happened on our second to last day. But, we were unaware of the severe weather the storm would bring.
Day 6: Upper Sinuwa: Cyclone Hudhud
The rain didn’t stop the rest of the day, or through the night, or the next morning. The rain pounded down on the metal roofs and actually sounded like waves crashing down.
We decided to stay put and hold out for the storm to break. We weren’t the only ones with that idea. The dining hall of our lodge was packed and everyone was telling stories, playing games, laughing, and siping tea or something stronger.
We knew it was snowing at ABC and heard stories of snow falling down and quickly piling up to people’s knees. Down just a little lower on the trail, people reported small streams turning into raging rivers. All of this pales in comparison to the havoc and chaos the storm was bringing to Thorong pass just on the other side of the range.
We decided we were going to hike out the next morning rain or shine.
Day 7: Upper Sinuwa to Pokhara
We woke up to sunny skies and it jolted our determination to get to Pokhara that same day. Our motivation was fueled by the desire for steaming hot showers, cold beer and a cozy bed. However, all those would have to come after the chocolate cake from the German Bakery in Chommrong.
We had been dreading the climb up all those stairs since we descended them. This time, we counted. 2,097 stone stairs to the top of town. Still, so much better than going down them.
We were able to catch a jeep in Saydi Bazar that would take us as far as the landslide. Then we caught another jeep on the other side. The road did prove to be impassable, but it was obvious no one wanted I clear the small slide from the road so that the jeeps could charge people twice. The rip off made us feel that much closer to the city.
When we arrived back in Lakeside, pokhara we had the best showers of our lives, a well-deserved beer, and slept soundly in our cozy bed.