Everest 3 Passes Trek part 2: Everest? Kinda A Big Deal.

Day Ten: Thangnak (15,580′) to Dzongla (16,980′) over Cho La pass (17,782′)

We started at dawn, waiting for daylight in hopes that it wouldn’t be so painfully cold. Our water bottles had frozen solid in our room overnight and starting the day in icy stiff hiking boots was like getting up on the wrong side of the bed. Unfortunately, the trail up Cho La pass was in a canyon completely shaded from the morning sun. We trudged uphill with numb fingers and toes, knowing that eventually we would find sunshine.

At the top of the pass, we found ourselves facing an amphitheater closely encircled by dramatic peaks. The snowscape was incredible, with hanging glaciers and jagged frozen ridge lines. The first few steps down the other side of the pass were terrifying. It was a steep icy slope that hung precariously over a glacial lake. We took in the view, then traded the mountainscape for the trecherous path before us.

When the trail started to mellow out, we rounded a corner and were presented with a perfectly framed view of Amadablam. This peak is truly stunning with a proud snow-capped summit flanked on all sides by steep arching ridge lines. I’ve always dreamed of climbing it. However, I was developing a new mountain crush, on Cholaste. I don’t consider it cheating since I will never really climb on either one.

We wandered down the trail, stopping to chat with friends and snap pictures of our stunning surroundings. We made it to Dzongla by the early afternoon and found a room in a lodge run by yet another Sherpa that summitted Everest 10 times. It was starting to seem like climbing it once was no big deal to them.

The village of Dzongla is situated seemingly right at the base of Cholaste and is blessed with with that perfectly framed view of Amadablam down the valley. We were greeted there by an ornery yak that seemed to get displeased if you didn’t take its picture.

Day Eleven: Dzongla (16,980′) to Gorek Shep (16,929′)

After a pleasant night sleep in a cozy double bed we started hiking gingerly down valley enjoying the warm morning sun. We quickly met up with Liz and George and their helpful, friendly guide. We ended up walking with them most of the day, enjoying conversation and the occasional snickers bar.

We parted ways with our friends in Lobuche, knowing that we would soon see each other again, and ventured on towards Gorek Shep.

We hiked along side the mighty Khumbu glacier, up and down and in and out of the rocky moraine to finally reach the last village below Mount Everest. “Village” might not be the most accurate word. Gorek Shep is just a few lodges built solely to provide trekkers food and lodging. It’s a harsh environment and the accommodations reflect that. Since every board and nail has to be carried up by yak or porter, the buildings are modest in construction, but it’s all the shelter that is available. When the dining hall is packed with people, and the yak poop stove is burning hot, at least it’s warm.

We arrived late in the day, we tried to strategize how to accomplish our goals in an efficient way. Ultimately, we failed and decided we would need to spend two nights at Gorek Shep in order to tick both the major attractions off the list.

Day Twelve: Everest Base Camp (17,575′)

We set off the next morning with light day packs and headed up the glacier towards the foot of Mount Everest. It was a fun hike with amazing views of Pumori (also new mountain crush), and Nuptse.

The trail along the Khumbu glacier is fresh with rockfall and movement. Another reminder of how young the Himalayas are and how raw the terrain is. We stopped briefly for a drink of water in the wrong spot and had to run and duck for cover as several soccer ball size rocks came crashing down towards us.

Because of the tragedy in the ice fall earlier this year, an avalanche that took the lives of 16 Sherpas, there is no climbing on Everest this year. “Ice Doctors” as they are respectfully called, are Sherpas responsible for setting ropes and aluminum ladders trough the dangerous maze of unstable jumbled ice blocks guarding the base of the mountain. Out of respect for their fallen friends, and the goddess that Buddhists believe resides on the summit of Sagarmatha (as Everest is locally called), the climbing season was suspended for 2014. As a result, there is no tent city at base camp this year. When we reached the base of the icefall we only saw prayer flags, friends and fellow trekkers, the vast glacier and towering peaks. Actually, we couldn’t even see Mount Everest!

We spent over an hour as basecamp, the weather was perfect and the energy was exciting. It was funny to see so many people celebrating reaching the bottom of something. For most people, basecamp is the end goal. For others it’s merely the beginning of the hard work. We are guilty too of taking cheesy touristy pictures with the basecamp banner. It felt like the thing to do.

Walking back from base camp was humbling. We felt proud for reaching that goal, we also felt inspired by those who walk down the same path after going so much further to stand on the summit. Many others are not so lucky, and the shrines and memorials honoring those lost climbers line the trail. Another reminder of the powerful draw these mountains possess.

Day Thirteen: Kala Patthar (18,192′) then hike to Lobuche (16,109′)

Most people start their day hike up to the summit of Kala Patthar before dawn, in hopes of being on top to see the sunrise. However, the sun rises in the east, behind Everest, so you don’t get to see the first rays of sun strike the peak at all. Some people leave in the late afternoon to witness that dramatic sunset alpine glow change colors on the summits. This would provide the best photo opportunities as long as the typical afternoon clouds aren’t obstructing the view.

For us, both of these options seemed really, really cold and crowded. Instead, we left late in the morning and walked up in the sunshine. We found the summit busy, but not crowded. The sky was clear and we were provided our closest and clearest views of the summits of Everest, Lohtse, Nuptse, Pumori, and the surrounding peaks. It was a 360 degree panorama of the highest mountains in the world. Once again, words just fail to capture it. We sat on the flatiron like summit and soaked it in as much as we could with the cold wind blowing powerfully. This would be the highest point we reach during this trip to the Himalaya.

We returned to the lodge in Gorek Shep, packed our packs and retraced the trail back down to Lobouche. One more huge day ahead until it becomes all downhill from there. Literally.

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This is only part of the story! Read parts one and three, and dont forget to share your Nepal stories with us in the comments.