Everest 3 Passes Trek part 3: Ermergherd it’s Amadablam!

Day Fourteen: Lobuche (16,109′) to Chukhung (15,518′) over Kongma La pass (18,159′)

After living at over 14,000′ for over a week we were feeling fit. We started up the third and final mountain pass of our trek in good spirits. The hike itself was really fun. We started by crossing over the Khumbu glacier via a twisting turning trail through the rock strewn ice. Then we reached the valley rising up to Kongma La pass. It was steep, and grew steeper as it climbed. Eventually, we were kicking steps up steep snow. It kept us on our toes. The risk of falling far was low, but it was an engaging climb to say the least.

For the first time when we reached the top of a mountain pass, we found ourselves completely alone. It was quite special to share that time together with only the calmness of all the air and openness surrounding us.

Soon enough we were joined on top by some friends we met along the trail. No matter how closely or loosely you get to know people on the trail, the camaraderie is strong and infectious. We took turns taking pictures and sharing encouragement and excitement.

We left our friends to enjoy their lunch on the top of the pass and started the long, long, long walk down to the valley floor. The entire walk we gawked at Amadablam as it stood directly in front of us. We finally reached Chukung in the last afternoon. We found a lodge that was nearly at the foot of Amadablam and were able to watch the sunset glow and fade from its summit. It was incredible to be so close to a mountain I’ve dreamed about for so long.

Several days later, at the end of our trek, we would learn that Alex, one of our friends, was struck by falling ice and injured on the way down from Kongma la pass. As a group, they were stuck at a high elevation until their guide could reach help in Chukung and return with others to aid their descent. We wish we could have been there to help them. We know it must have been a long walk out.

Day Fifteen: Chukhung (15,518′) to Phortse (12,500)

We woke up with a sense of accomplishment and closure. We had succeeded in traversing three high mountain passes across the highest mountains in the world. It was all downhill from here… except for all the uphill parts.

In order to make it Lukla for our flight, today needed to be a big day. We set our sights on reaching Phortse. It was a more challenging trail, but promised better views. Also, we had one final goal of our trek and that was to check in on the construction of the Khumbu Climbing School.

The upper trail to Phortse did not disappoint. Although it bypassed some of the more historical towns and significant religious sites of the valley, the perspective was unparalleled. It was one of the more enjoyable stretches of trail on the entire trek, challenging and exciting with amazing views up and down the valley.

We arrived in the early evening completely exhausted. We had hiked for almost 8 hours and we would wait until morning to enjoy the wonderful village of Phortse.

Day Sixteen: Phortse (12,500) to Jorsalle (8,990′)

In the morning, after breakfast, we explored the beautiful town and found the Khumbu Climbing School. Some of our friends in Boulder have participated in the construction of the school. It is being built on land donated by locals, with funds raised and donated by the Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation through Conrad Anker and his wife Jennifer Leigh Lowe, it was designed by architecture students at Montana state university and the final design was selected by representatives of Phortse. When completed it will provide much needed education, training, and certification for Nepali guides and climbing Sherpas. We felt a connection to it through our friends that helped build it.

While checking out the construction progress we were lucky to chat with the landowners about the project and meet Dean, a Colorado transplant from Montana that helped design, draw, and now is overseeing the building’s construction. It was so fun to see the progress and meet more great individuals involved with the project.

Eventually, we found ourselves back on the trail and facing the long climb up to Namche. It was exhausting, but we actually had a deadline. Our flight back to Kathmandu was schedule to leave at 7:30 the next morning. We pushed through Namche with tired swollen feet, cramping shoulders and achy backs. Finally, we surrendered in Jorsalle. It was another long day on the trail with lots of ups and downs.

Day Seventeen: Jorsalle (8,990′) to Lukla (9,184′)

We were low enough in elevation to be back in the trees and the humidity. It was just wet enough outside to feel chilled to the bone. We were haggard from the hike and looking forward to finally finishing.

We did, however, enjoy revisiting the stretch of trail that leads to and from Lukla. We reminisced about how we felt just a few weeks ago when we walked the same trail to start our trek.

 

By the time we reached Lukla it was obvious to us what we needed to do to truly complete our journey… we found the biggest cheeseburger we could find, devoured it, then drank a tall cold beer.

Day Eighteen: flight back to Kathmandu

Based on our experience flying into Lukla, we truly had no idea what to expect when trying to fly out. We arrived timely for our flight, and the airport was slowly filling up with trekking groups and heaps of duffle bags, however, no one seemed to actually work at the airport.

 

We overheard through the grape vine that clouds were delaying planes from departing Kathmandu. Eventually, someone gave us a boarding pass which allowed us to wait some more in a different room. Then, finally we saw a plane land with our airline’s logo. Without any information presented or being instructed to do so, a group of us took it upon ourselves to walk out onto the runway and get on the plane. It worked, and soon enough our plane was pointed downhill and speeding toward the edge of the cliff that is the end of the runway. Instantly we were thousands of feet in the air soaring through the mountains toward the warmth and crowded chaos on the Kathmandu valley.

 

Try not to be terrified while waiting for your plane when you know you’re going to have to do this soon:

Deathly Runway: Lukla, Nepal from Michelle White on Vimeo.

Our time in the Himalayas was a true adventure of both body and spirit. Laying eyes on Mount Everest for the first time is an experience we will never forget. We have been away from Nepal for a month now and we are starting to realize just how special the treks, and all of Nepal, were. It holds a special place in our hearts, and we hope to return.

---

Get the whole story! Read parts one and two of this series. Tell us about your experience in Nepal. We want to hear all the love!