Many travelers we crossed paths with described Hanoi as a place to get out of quickly, lacking an abundance of sights to spend significant time, a pit stop on the way to other attractions. But, the Hanoi we found pulled us in.Weeks later, as I was asked for my own travel advice for Hanoi, I was finally able to put my finger on why we enjoyed our time there so much. It was because we were invisible, even though we stood out so much as foreigners, we blended into the background of the hustle and bustle of the big city. Locals didn’t look at us as an opportunity to make some cash, in fact, they didn’t really seem to care if they we were there at all. We didn’t feel like tourists, we just felt anonymous. We were treated like every person in any big city anywhere in the world: we were ignored and free to observe everyday life happen all around us.
Although we had some trepidation about being Americans in Vietnam, our worries diminished with each local we met. When asked where we were from, people seemed excited and welcoming when they learned we were from the USA.
Having a father that served in the Vietnam/American war, we were especially interested in the learning more about that period of the country’s history. Visiting the Military Museum in Hanoi proved that this nation’s identity has been forged in the fires of war.
Immediately after winning their war with the French, the newly independent nation found themselves in the more widely known American war. Despite all the conflict in the not to distant past, the country was rebounded resoundly well. Lives are improving, industry is booming, and cities are focused on modernization and determined to be a contributing partner in the international community.
The country’s unwavering pride in its past is perhaps best exemplified by Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum. The father figure that took a nation in his hands, lead it through war, and set its course for the future is painstakingly preserved and on display. Despite his wishes to be cremated, his embalmed body is housed in a stunning monument and visitors are marched through military-style to pay homage. Photos were not allowed inside. Fair enough. No photos needed to remember such an eerie and powerful display.
We stayed in the Old Town neighborhood and we’re delighted to enjoy the down-to-earth local scene right outside our door. There was a constant flow of motorbikes and incessant truck horns echoing through the narrow streets, the buzz of everyday life in a city of seven million people. The people were friendly and although we were obviously outsiders, we weren’t treated any differently than anyone else.
It would be impossible to describe how great Hanoi is without mentioning the food. Almost everyday one of us would say, “this is the best [soup, pork, tofu, spring roll…] I’ve ever had.” The best food in Asia is found in the street food stands, and Hanoi’s small sidewalks are stuffed with them. Food stalls generally only serve one dish that they are especially good at preparing, which makes it easy to order when you don’t speak the language and there isn’t even a menu. We would just sit down on the tiny plastic furniture (the smaller the table and chairs the better the food), and order two of wherever they make, usually paying less than $3 for both us to enjoy the “best thing we’ve ever had.”
Although we saw a host of cafes and bars, the liveliest drinking joints followed the “furniture rule.” Locals packed into corner stalls, filling every tiny plastic stool, to enjoy countless mugs of bia hoa, a locally brewed beer so fresh it must be served and enjoyed the same day. Although lacking the variety of the craft beer scene were used to in Colorado, it’s hard to beat a cold beer that costs 25 cents.
We were the only white people sitting in a packed beer joint one night and struck up a conversation with the guys siting next to us. They were so happy to meet us and swap stories about our lives. An artist, a film maker, and a race car driver, all with great senses of humor and a passion for what they did. It was such a fun night of swapping rounds of beers with friendly strangers.
Our time in Hanoi, however brief, made us feel welcomed to Vietnam, dispite our nerves about the unexepcted possibilites of being Americans in their country. Instead of feeling hated and unwanted, we felt welcomed and proud. The Vietnamese are a strong people who are willing but the past behind them, and be their stepping stone into the modern world. Hanoi gave us hints that showed us we would learn so much in our time here. Onward!